And every time I mention how good it is, some forlorn soul in the comments mentions Emperor: Rise Of The Middle Kingdom, it's successor-but-one (after Zeus: Master of Olympus) from 2002, as being better.
I'm always going on about Pharaoh, the Impressions city builder from 1999 that's lodged itself in my psyche like a toy soldier in an alsatian's paw.
One a day, every day, perhaps for all time. Have You Played? is an endless stream of game retrospectives.